Valhalla - Spectacular Villa near the French Riviera

ome things we'd like to share with you about traveling and sight-seeing in southern France...

Don’t take U.S. dollars or traveler’s cheques. There are ATMs everywhere that dispense euros at the best possible bank exchange rates. Use one upon arrival at the Nice International Airport to get tip and toll booth money, as well as “walking around money.” U.S. credit cards (AMEX, VISA, MC) are widely accepted, so count on using them for all your purchases (that includes supermarkets!)

There is one toll booth between the Nice airport and the villa on A-8. The fare is 2.40 euros (as of Spring 2003). Exact change is not needed – the automatic machine gives change, and the booth attendants can, as well. Fares to other destinations, and other A-8 toll booths, vary.

Parking Garages – when you park and leave the car, take your parking ticket with you. In almost all French parking facilities you pay at a central location (on foot) on your way returning to the car. This is because the French don’t believe in attended parking toll booths. This is important because if you don’t validate your parking ticket at the payment kiosk before you get back in the car, you will not be able to get out, and will only have to repark and walk back up to the kiosk location.

There is a train (SNCF operated) that runs along the coast and stops at virtually every town. This is a good way to get around if the driving in the cities bothers you, and is a must if you’re going to Monte Carlo for the Grand Prix of Monaco in June. Check schedules and routes at SNCF.com

Learn a little French using a phrase book. Although English is the second language on the Cote d’ Azur, not everyone speaks it. Everyone expects a Bonjour, Bonsoir, Merci, Pardon, etc. during normal daily interaction. Knowing some French will make your time in France more interesting and you’ll feel like less of a foreigner.

The weather on the Cote d’Azur is perfect from mid-May through mid-October – blue skies, little rain, 70’s, no humidity. The nights are balmy. Any attire will do – you’ll see it all on the Riviera – from blue jeans to haut couture, speedos, thongs with no tops, you name it. A coat (without a tie) is a must for some restaurants and casinos – particularly Monte Carlo.

Valhalla is 50 minutes (40 km) from Nice International Airport (direct flights from New York!), 60 minutes from Monaco and Monte Carlo, 75 minutes from the Italian border, and 90 minutes from St. Tropez and its world-famous beaches and harbor.

Closer to the villa is the quaint village of Cabris which overlooks the coast from the Alpes-Maritime and is only 8 minutes from the Valhalla; a perfect place to pick up your morning croissant, have lunch (dejeuner) at an outside café, or have an evening cappuccino or glace (ice cream).

ight-Seeing:

Use the guide books for definitive information and other ideas, but some of my favorites, or “must sees” are:

Cannes – La Croisette, Palais des Festival, the place (square) by the old port/marina

St. Paul de Vence – medieval village (vieux ville) has many art galleries and tourist type shops. Try the back route, through Cabris, Grasses, Gourdon, and then Gorge de Loupe – very scenic!

Nice – the market (marche) called the Cours Saleya in the old town (vieux ville) is wonderful. Also, a drive along the Promenade des Anglais toward the old port and Villefranche is a must.

Villefranche – picturesque hillside town surrounding one of the best anchorages on the Riviera (former home of the U.S. Sixth Fleet!)

Mougins Village – the old village (vieux ville) is very quaint and has some good, reasonably priced shops and galleries – also some excellent restaurants.

Gorges du Verdun – the “Grand Canyon of France.” Very nice country drive (to the northwest) through St. Vallier de Thiey and Castellane. Check the guide books.

Cap Ferrat/St. Jean (Cap Ferrat – Cap Ferrat is the peninsula between Beaulieu and Villefranche that has some of the most expensive real estate on the Riviera. There are many large estates (movie stars, etc.) and a pretty town (St. Jean) with a nice marina and wonderful views back towards Beaulieu and the cliffs and mountains around Monaco. Nice place to have a drink, cafe, or ice cream.

St. Tropez – this is a full day trip, or near so, given the 1 ½ hour drive each way. St. Tropez is a fishing village turned into a jet set destination in the summer. Great shopping, beaches, restaurants, and lots of traffic.

Antibes – coastal town with lots to see and do, and many good restaurants. Good place to shop for souvenirs and stroll around to hearts content.

Roquebrune/Cap Martin – on the Grand (upper) Corniche with spectacular views down the mountain of the Mediterranean below, as well as Monte Carlo and Cap Ferrat. Site of one of the oldest medieval castles in France (10th Century).

Eze – touristy medieval village above the Moyenne (middle) Corniche. Great views and good shops.

Menton – the “lemon capital” of France, right on the border of Italy. The area has a warm, micro-climate by it’s position between the Maritime Alps and the sea. Nice little town. Go there on market (marche) day – check the market schedule(s) in the villa!

Art museums – read the guide books – every town has at least one, and Nice has about 5, including a modern art museum. The French impressionists and other famous painters all have museum exhibits on the Riviera – Monet, Picasso, Gaugin, Chagall, Matisse, Cezanne, Van Gogh, etc.

Full day trips, over-niters:

Aix en Provence – right on A-8, west of St. Tropez, north of Marseilles. French college town – very alive. Great Cezanne museum. Great shops and restaurants in the Cours Mirabeau area.

Avignon – farther west on A-8 at the fringe of the Provence region. Historic city – home of the French Popes during the Western Schism (late middle ages) and the famous Cotes du Rhone wine, Chateauneuf du Pape.

Marseilles – largest port city in France. Home of boullabaise. The culture is as much North African, as French.

Arles, Les Baux, St. Remy, and the Camarque - all great visits - read the guide books.